Guys please give Jim a break about his blog He is busy getting the camp set up with communications. He will be back on line in the next couple days with many good pictures which I cannot post due to line speed.
I appreciate all the comments that the blog has generated and I welcome more in the future.( it does give me confidence to keep this adventure going) I am amazed at who the people are who following this story as it is some new friends and some old friends. Thanks
Corwin – I hope you and family are doing well. Good to see you following
Sylvia- thanks for the comments
Ashley – I appreciate all of the positive support that you have given over the past few weeks. I know you have been busy traveling with your friends (wedding) and family (girls, dogs and mother) over this period but you have always been able to give positive comments to help me keep going. I hope you have great week on the gulf just taking some time off. I sure hope the deal on the house works out for you. I look forward to seeing you again when I return to the US.
See- glad to see you joined in I hope you and family are doing well. XOXO
K Bee and K Nui- Be careful traveling in Korea and back to Bangkok. Miss you both can’t wait to see the pictures and see what you bought K Steve.
Glenn Thx mate
Sorry if I missed some of you but I appreciate all of them
I tried to post some pictures last night but the internet is running too slow maybe I can get them to download in the next couple of days. I want you all to see the ceremony, my home and the day in the ice fall.
Friday, April 16, 2010
Everest Base Camp Home
We are located somewhere around 17500 ft above sea level. While it looks like a huge rock quarry, it is really rock lying on top of a glacier. It is constantly moving and when I am in the bed at night I listen to the snap crackle and pop of it moving. ( AT 18000 ft the oxygen level is 50% vs 100% at sea level so everything is a chore to do without breathing hard)
Jim says that our camp will have to be moved around before we leave and he has seen even a crevasse open up under the mess tent in a previous year. This caught my attention when I heard several loud pops under my tent the first night.
The other thing I hear constantly is the avalanches of the mountains surrounding us. It is rocks and snow. One of the things today that were brought up was the trail into camp 1. Evidently there is a crevasse that is quite large with a ladder over it and this could cause a bottleneck with many people at risk if an avalanche happened in this avalanche prone area. Jim attended a meeting to discuss the plans of all the teams to help medicate this risk over the next few days. I haven’t heard the plan but will know more before we go on Sunday morning.
I am living in a 3 man tent with a mattress and blanket and I lay my sleeping bed on top of it to keep warm. My head faces the mountain as in most Asian cultures you never show anyone the bottom of your feet. I have my 3 duffel bags surrounding me like a barrier to keep anything or anyone out. Can’t believe it is all I need for 2 month of living. It is nice and comfortable but certainly not like my home in BKK.
Jim says that our camp will have to be moved around before we leave and he has seen even a crevasse open up under the mess tent in a previous year. This caught my attention when I heard several loud pops under my tent the first night.
The other thing I hear constantly is the avalanches of the mountains surrounding us. It is rocks and snow. One of the things today that were brought up was the trail into camp 1. Evidently there is a crevasse that is quite large with a ladder over it and this could cause a bottleneck with many people at risk if an avalanche happened in this avalanche prone area. Jim attended a meeting to discuss the plans of all the teams to help medicate this risk over the next few days. I haven’t heard the plan but will know more before we go on Sunday morning.
I am living in a 3 man tent with a mattress and blanket and I lay my sleeping bed on top of it to keep warm. My head faces the mountain as in most Asian cultures you never show anyone the bottom of your feet. I have my 3 duffel bags surrounding me like a barrier to keep anything or anyone out. Can’t believe it is all I need for 2 month of living. It is nice and comfortable but certainly not like my home in BKK.
My Dietary Habits
The Challenge to Jim’s Team and my Success
Before the trip I had requested certain things to Jim that I liked and didn’t like to eat because eating (or lack of) is my number one issue or a cause for alarm that could keep me for being able to summit Mt Everest. This is the background to it and where we are today.
Background
Normal day to day
I do not eat that much food regularly in my normal day to day life and I would be easily give the title of being a picky eater if though I like food from around the world. I usually have a coke because Asia and S America doesn’t have MD (but thanks to Wally Berg I have my Mt Dew for breakfast here), usually a bowl of rice and vegetables at lunch if in BKK or a salad on the run if traveling and then a meal at night but usually fish, pasta or chicken. Add to this a regularly routine fitness routine and I haven’t changed my weight much in the last 15 years only just where it is on me.
Typical Climbing trip
In a 2-3 week climbing trip I would lose about 4 to 5 kilos (8 to 11 lbs) quite easily. The first week is ok for food. The 2nd week (higher altitude, you begin to lose your appetite) everything starts tasting the same and by the 3rd week (even higher altitude) I just don’t want anything to eat. This has hurt me in some of my climbs but I could usually overcome this because I have learned to compensate to make it to the summits.
Everest trip
If I did this for a 2 month trip there would be no way that I would be physically strong enough to climb Everest. Just remember when we are doing these 6-7-8 hours of walking, we are burning off some 4000 to 6000 calories and this could be even more the higher because your body is working so hard just to breathe because of the lack of oxygen.
So now you are seeing why I was requesting things that I like and back to the story. Remember I am writing this for me to remember all of these detail when I am old and my memory is falling.
Up to date situation
I requested Blueberry frosted Pop tarts ( brand name), Heinz Ketchup, Heinz 57, a lot of black pepper and French’s plain mustard because I want to have something to put on anything ( even if it is just bread) and it taste like something I like so I will eat something. I also requested that we do not have green peppers (high altitude is terrible for indigestion and I take Nexium already for acid reflux), no garlic, and no mushrooms. Well the list keeps growing on the way up the mountain, No ginger spicing, no eggs in anything especially my potato salad, and I requested that Jim base camp manager bring up some Kraft’s Thousand Island dressing for the crackers I saw that Jim had brought. I guess this last request was the final straw as the lady asked Jim” Does this guy eat condiments on paper?” because most of what she is bringing condiments and 4 more boxes of pop tarts because Jim brought the wrong brand. Just heard that her family and friends were getting a laugh about the pop tarts which are real “Breakfast of Champions”
It has now begin to be funny as the cook comes into the tent before every meal to make sure I will eat what he will cook and I think now Jim understands my taste so I think I will have better chance of eating more to keep the weight loss to a minimum. This is just one of those things that have to be worked out with our new travel partnership and I do plan to travel more with Jim in the future. Of course Martin will eat anything so this does not affect him thanks goodness I am the only picky one. I look forward to meeting the camp manager early next week to hear her side of the story.
Before the trip I had requested certain things to Jim that I liked and didn’t like to eat because eating (or lack of) is my number one issue or a cause for alarm that could keep me for being able to summit Mt Everest. This is the background to it and where we are today.
Background
Normal day to day
I do not eat that much food regularly in my normal day to day life and I would be easily give the title of being a picky eater if though I like food from around the world. I usually have a coke because Asia and S America doesn’t have MD (but thanks to Wally Berg I have my Mt Dew for breakfast here), usually a bowl of rice and vegetables at lunch if in BKK or a salad on the run if traveling and then a meal at night but usually fish, pasta or chicken. Add to this a regularly routine fitness routine and I haven’t changed my weight much in the last 15 years only just where it is on me.
Typical Climbing trip
In a 2-3 week climbing trip I would lose about 4 to 5 kilos (8 to 11 lbs) quite easily. The first week is ok for food. The 2nd week (higher altitude, you begin to lose your appetite) everything starts tasting the same and by the 3rd week (even higher altitude) I just don’t want anything to eat. This has hurt me in some of my climbs but I could usually overcome this because I have learned to compensate to make it to the summits.
Everest trip
If I did this for a 2 month trip there would be no way that I would be physically strong enough to climb Everest. Just remember when we are doing these 6-7-8 hours of walking, we are burning off some 4000 to 6000 calories and this could be even more the higher because your body is working so hard just to breathe because of the lack of oxygen.
So now you are seeing why I was requesting things that I like and back to the story. Remember I am writing this for me to remember all of these detail when I am old and my memory is falling.
Up to date situation
I requested Blueberry frosted Pop tarts ( brand name), Heinz Ketchup, Heinz 57, a lot of black pepper and French’s plain mustard because I want to have something to put on anything ( even if it is just bread) and it taste like something I like so I will eat something. I also requested that we do not have green peppers (high altitude is terrible for indigestion and I take Nexium already for acid reflux), no garlic, and no mushrooms. Well the list keeps growing on the way up the mountain, No ginger spicing, no eggs in anything especially my potato salad, and I requested that Jim base camp manager bring up some Kraft’s Thousand Island dressing for the crackers I saw that Jim had brought. I guess this last request was the final straw as the lady asked Jim” Does this guy eat condiments on paper?” because most of what she is bringing condiments and 4 more boxes of pop tarts because Jim brought the wrong brand. Just heard that her family and friends were getting a laugh about the pop tarts which are real “Breakfast of Champions”
It has now begin to be funny as the cook comes into the tent before every meal to make sure I will eat what he will cook and I think now Jim understands my taste so I think I will have better chance of eating more to keep the weight loss to a minimum. This is just one of those things that have to be worked out with our new travel partnership and I do plan to travel more with Jim in the future. Of course Martin will eat anything so this does not affect him thanks goodness I am the only picky one. I look forward to meeting the camp manager early next week to hear her side of the story.
Great Day in the Khumba ICE Fall
April 16, 2010
A great day in the Khumbu Ice Fall. As I went t bed last night I was as nervous as I have ever been in my climbing life. For the first time in my life I was facing something that I could not imagine in my mind what to expect. I had read the books. I had seen pictures but everyone had told me that you will not know what it is until you get there because it is always changing.
Nima Tashi, Martin and I left for the falls around 10 am. By 11:15 we had encountered our first ladder. On the way up we were moving fairly quickly as we moved up down sideways etc. It reminded me of the first time I took my kids to the “Jungle Jim’ in Chattanooga. (You know how you climb stairs, crawl through tubes, slide down into balls, and climb the rope to the lookout point.) Well that was what this was like but I was 20 something then maybe early 30’s and I am 48 years old now and the stakes are considerably higher with crevasses everywhere you looked and the potential that the ice fall could reshape at any minute. Nima told us about half way up our climb that what we see today especially as we get higher will be totally different than what we will see in the next few weeks and I totally believe what he is saying because base camp 2010 is totally different than 2009. It is not even close to the same shape and size. I just hope most of these changes are when I am not in the Ice Fall and surly while I am not on the ladder.
Anyway I wanted to give you something t hat most of you have seen or done with your children or grand children and if you haven’t then look next time you are at one of those places and imagine you are on ice/snow doing it.
Ok back to the story. This ladder was a 10 foot alum ladder standing straight up an ice wall. It really was not too bad but remember I have spikes on my feet , 2 poles in my hands and a assist rope to get down this ladder all the while you are trying to see the steps hold the rope and keep your poles from digging in somewhere where they don’t need to be and hope you don’t fall. Funny huh? Well Go get on you step ladder and try it
Ok on to the next ladder. This was about 15 feet across a crevasse that I never saw the bottom, but bear in mind I was not looking either. So this was (2) 10’ alum ladders tied together with straps so the first 5 foot was a double ladder so this made me feel good since I am not the little Sherpa that I just saw almost run over it weighing about 50 kilos( 100 lbs) and didn’t seem to care much about the bottomless crevasse. Any way it was my time to go and we have about 10 people waiting to come down and up and the pressure was on and I was just bearing sweat. You have 2 ropes to help you balance. Right?? These ropes are lying on the ground when you get to the ladder. They are not stretched tight so you could hold on to so you could then just worry about your steps. We all know that would be too easy and the “Ice Doctors” couldn’t keep them up like that because of the glacier movement so you have to provide your own stability. So you pick up the ropes and lean forward to bring tension on the ropes and then you begin your journey. Again I have spikes on my feet, poles dangling from my wrist and me( big ole Steve leaning forward with these ropes) trying to walk on this alum ladder and not trying to think about falling and worse yet, what if the ropes give way I go face first and take a terrible tumble for a long way. (Now I am tied in to these 2 ropes with my harness around my waist connected by 2 carabineers at the end of a rope so there is an element of safety but it the rope anchors fail then you know the answer. Again if you want to know how this feels just go outside and try it on level ground and I bet it will still give u a little scare. )
Well none of us fell, (Thank Goodness) even as we went over several more ladders of varying degrees ( lengths, heights positions) even to a point of having gaining some confidence in doing this that this might not be so bad after all but remember too that this was in the daylight. The next time I see these ladders on Sunday it will be in the dark. Funny it seems like climbing this damn mountain always has some more to offer than any other one I have climbed but I will continue on for another day.
I hope I gave you a good picture of what we did for 4 hours today. It was one of the scariest moments but also one of the greatest moments of my life especially having my friend Martin here. He was like a kid in a candy store. He loved it! Remember Martin is 62 years “Young” and did it without any hesitation and he gave me the confidence that I needed to overcome this crucial point in my journey. I have to make it through this Ice Fall 4 times if I have the chance to get to the top of this damn mountain so today left me wanting more and I want to see the changes.
A great day in the Khumbu Ice Fall. As I went t bed last night I was as nervous as I have ever been in my climbing life. For the first time in my life I was facing something that I could not imagine in my mind what to expect. I had read the books. I had seen pictures but everyone had told me that you will not know what it is until you get there because it is always changing.
Nima Tashi, Martin and I left for the falls around 10 am. By 11:15 we had encountered our first ladder. On the way up we were moving fairly quickly as we moved up down sideways etc. It reminded me of the first time I took my kids to the “Jungle Jim’ in Chattanooga. (You know how you climb stairs, crawl through tubes, slide down into balls, and climb the rope to the lookout point.) Well that was what this was like but I was 20 something then maybe early 30’s and I am 48 years old now and the stakes are considerably higher with crevasses everywhere you looked and the potential that the ice fall could reshape at any minute. Nima told us about half way up our climb that what we see today especially as we get higher will be totally different than what we will see in the next few weeks and I totally believe what he is saying because base camp 2010 is totally different than 2009. It is not even close to the same shape and size. I just hope most of these changes are when I am not in the Ice Fall and surly while I am not on the ladder.
Anyway I wanted to give you something t hat most of you have seen or done with your children or grand children and if you haven’t then look next time you are at one of those places and imagine you are on ice/snow doing it.
Ok back to the story. This ladder was a 10 foot alum ladder standing straight up an ice wall. It really was not too bad but remember I have spikes on my feet , 2 poles in my hands and a assist rope to get down this ladder all the while you are trying to see the steps hold the rope and keep your poles from digging in somewhere where they don’t need to be and hope you don’t fall. Funny huh? Well Go get on you step ladder and try it
Ok on to the next ladder. This was about 15 feet across a crevasse that I never saw the bottom, but bear in mind I was not looking either. So this was (2) 10’ alum ladders tied together with straps so the first 5 foot was a double ladder so this made me feel good since I am not the little Sherpa that I just saw almost run over it weighing about 50 kilos( 100 lbs) and didn’t seem to care much about the bottomless crevasse. Any way it was my time to go and we have about 10 people waiting to come down and up and the pressure was on and I was just bearing sweat. You have 2 ropes to help you balance. Right?? These ropes are lying on the ground when you get to the ladder. They are not stretched tight so you could hold on to so you could then just worry about your steps. We all know that would be too easy and the “Ice Doctors” couldn’t keep them up like that because of the glacier movement so you have to provide your own stability. So you pick up the ropes and lean forward to bring tension on the ropes and then you begin your journey. Again I have spikes on my feet, poles dangling from my wrist and me( big ole Steve leaning forward with these ropes) trying to walk on this alum ladder and not trying to think about falling and worse yet, what if the ropes give way I go face first and take a terrible tumble for a long way. (Now I am tied in to these 2 ropes with my harness around my waist connected by 2 carabineers at the end of a rope so there is an element of safety but it the rope anchors fail then you know the answer. Again if you want to know how this feels just go outside and try it on level ground and I bet it will still give u a little scare. )
Well none of us fell, (Thank Goodness) even as we went over several more ladders of varying degrees ( lengths, heights positions) even to a point of having gaining some confidence in doing this that this might not be so bad after all but remember too that this was in the daylight. The next time I see these ladders on Sunday it will be in the dark. Funny it seems like climbing this damn mountain always has some more to offer than any other one I have climbed but I will continue on for another day.
I hope I gave you a good picture of what we did for 4 hours today. It was one of the scariest moments but also one of the greatest moments of my life especially having my friend Martin here. He was like a kid in a candy store. He loved it! Remember Martin is 62 years “Young” and did it without any hesitation and he gave me the confidence that I needed to overcome this crucial point in my journey. I have to make it through this Ice Fall 4 times if I have the chance to get to the top of this damn mountain so today left me wanting more and I want to see the changes.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
First Day at Everest Basse camp
I was up at 6 am because I just couldn’t stand to be in the tent any longer. I went to bed at 8 pm and by 6 am I was like a caged animal and my side hurt from laying down so much. I knew the sun would not be on us until about 745 am so I just went to mess tent and waited on the others to get up or the sun to come up and it would be much warmer. We had more snow last night about 2 inches and the temp was below freezing.
I did get a hot water bottle before I went to bed and even though it wasn’t as hot as the one I had gotten the night before it still seemed to last until about 4 am. It got my feet warm early in the night and then I moved it up to my belly and had it there for the rest of the morning.
I didn’t sleep well last night as the excitement of finally getting to base camp was really bringing reality to the situation. Had lots on the mind and I am sure I still got 8 hours of sleep somewhere in those times of restlessness.
I did like the tent and bed layout and while I am not looking forward to spending the next month in there it is pretty comfortable.
We didn’t have a busy day planned, due to our last 3 days of pretty tough walking and lots of organizing to do for the upcoming days. The first thing on the agenda was getting a shower which was nice after being without one for 5 days. Funny how good a hot shower feels in 40 degree weather but it was awesome. Nothing like putting clean clothes on a clean body for a change and it might e a few more days before that happens again. I got a few clothes washed which was nice also.
The other thing that was done today was to try out the new bathroom or the “The Throne” as we call it. This is completely made out of stone and perch high (about 4 ½ ft) like you are the king sitting on it and it is lined with felt paper to make the toilet seat. It is by far the best homemade toilet that I have ever seen or used for that matter. Sorry but you always have to have at least 1 or 2 potty stories on your trip because people always wonder but never ask.
After we did the necessities we proceeded to have the Puja at 11 am which lasted 2 hours. The Puja is performed at every expedition site before anything can happen. It is a blessing for the people, the food we brought (even the Mt Dew) and our tools for summit day (ice axe boots harness and crampons) that we will have strength and safety for our trip. We then went to David Beshears grand opening which was nice and had some outstanding pictures.
I did get a hot water bottle before I went to bed and even though it wasn’t as hot as the one I had gotten the night before it still seemed to last until about 4 am. It got my feet warm early in the night and then I moved it up to my belly and had it there for the rest of the morning.
I didn’t sleep well last night as the excitement of finally getting to base camp was really bringing reality to the situation. Had lots on the mind and I am sure I still got 8 hours of sleep somewhere in those times of restlessness.
I did like the tent and bed layout and while I am not looking forward to spending the next month in there it is pretty comfortable.
We didn’t have a busy day planned, due to our last 3 days of pretty tough walking and lots of organizing to do for the upcoming days. The first thing on the agenda was getting a shower which was nice after being without one for 5 days. Funny how good a hot shower feels in 40 degree weather but it was awesome. Nothing like putting clean clothes on a clean body for a change and it might e a few more days before that happens again. I got a few clothes washed which was nice also.
The other thing that was done today was to try out the new bathroom or the “The Throne” as we call it. This is completely made out of stone and perch high (about 4 ½ ft) like you are the king sitting on it and it is lined with felt paper to make the toilet seat. It is by far the best homemade toilet that I have ever seen or used for that matter. Sorry but you always have to have at least 1 or 2 potty stories on your trip because people always wonder but never ask.
After we did the necessities we proceeded to have the Puja at 11 am which lasted 2 hours. The Puja is performed at every expedition site before anything can happen. It is a blessing for the people, the food we brought (even the Mt Dew) and our tools for summit day (ice axe boots harness and crampons) that we will have strength and safety for our trip. We then went to David Beshears grand opening which was nice and had some outstanding pictures.
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Personal updates April 14th
Opus Martin and I got your text message Hope all is well with you
Lauren safe travels home
Leah was good to talk to you.
Jenny thanks for the conversation I love you
Lida I hope you and Wes have a great time riding your bikes
Lauren safe travels home
Leah was good to talk to you.
Jenny thanks for the conversation I love you
Lida I hope you and Wes have a great time riding your bikes
The "Smoking Walk to Base Camp"
Jim " the Dozer" was surly going to show Martin and I that though he might be Fat(according to Jenny) he certainly was capable was making Martin and I hoof and poof a bit today,
We left home expecting a 6 hour walk to base camp and Jim had us there from Loboche in 4 hrs and 15 mins.We only stop once when i was bitching that I wanted something to drink so Jim gave 3 mins. what a nice guy.
We made it here and I finally am in my new home for the next month. It is not too bad a place as i have to look at the Ice Fall whenever i open my tent. I guess someone wants me to meet my insecurities right from the start.
we saw Wally when we came into camp and had a coke with him and he gave over to visit with us later. He was great seeing old mountain friends.
We are very close to many of our friends so we should have a good time over the next 30 days.
I am looking forward to sleeping in my home tonight and as you can see i am @ 17500 ft and I am working an my Internet just like I was home in BKK.
we will have our (PUJA)with our team and all of our Sherpa's to bless us with safety on the mountain and attend an open house for a museum for David Bershears which is a famous Everest photographer.
so we will be busy tomorrow.
Tonight is cold about freezing and it will continue to drop more tonight and probably more snow.
Thanks for all the comments and following sorry I am so many personal things but I want to keep this and remember what was happening in my life when i reread this when I get old.
We left home expecting a 6 hour walk to base camp and Jim had us there from Loboche in 4 hrs and 15 mins.We only stop once when i was bitching that I wanted something to drink so Jim gave 3 mins. what a nice guy.
We made it here and I finally am in my new home for the next month. It is not too bad a place as i have to look at the Ice Fall whenever i open my tent. I guess someone wants me to meet my insecurities right from the start.
we saw Wally when we came into camp and had a coke with him and he gave over to visit with us later. He was great seeing old mountain friends.
We are very close to many of our friends so we should have a good time over the next 30 days.
I am looking forward to sleeping in my home tonight and as you can see i am @ 17500 ft and I am working an my Internet just like I was home in BKK.
we will have our (PUJA)with our team and all of our Sherpa's to bless us with safety on the mountain and attend an open house for a museum for David Bershears which is a famous Everest photographer.
so we will be busy tomorrow.
Tonight is cold about freezing and it will continue to drop more tonight and probably more snow.
Thanks for all the comments and following sorry I am so many personal things but I want to keep this and remember what was happening in my life when i reread this when I get old.
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